Austria Travel Guide

The Kaffeehaus""You have troubles of one sort or another – to the KAFFEEHAUS! She can't come to you for some reason no matter how plausible – to the KAFFEEHAUS! You have holes in your shoes – the KAFFEEHAUS! You have a salary of 400 crowns and spend 500 – THE KAFFEEHAUS! You are frugal and permit yourself nothing – THE KAFFEEHAUS! You find no woman who suits you – THE KAFFEEHAUS! You are SPIRITUALLY on the threshold of suicide – THE KAFFEEHAUS! You hate and disdain people and yet cannot do without them – THE KAFFEEHAUS! Nobody extends you any more credit anywhere – THE KAFFEEHAUS!""The Kaffeehaus"Peter Altenberg (1859–1919)
Since the late nineteenth century the Kaffeehaus has been the most important social institution in the towns and cities of the former Habsburg Empire. It was described by writer Stefan Zweig as "a sort of democratic club to which admission costs the small price of a cup of coffee. Upon payment of this mite, every guest can sit for hours on end, discuss, write, play cards, receive his mail, and above all, can go through an unlimited number of newspapers and magazines". There is still something unique about the institution even today. While the rest of the world queues up for fast food, the Kaffeehaus implores you to slow down, or, as the sign in one such Viennese café says, "sorry, we do not cater for people in a hurry". For the price of a small coffee, you can still sit for as long as you like without being asked to move on or buy another drink. Understandably, then, the price of this first drink is fairly steep and will regularly set you back around up to €3. Naturally enough, Vienna has the best selection, but in most large towns and cities, you'll find at least one authentic Kaffeehaus, with the daily newspapers in wooden frames, the waiters in tuxedos, traditional Austrian food on the inexpensive menu, and, of course, a selection of cakes and strudels on display.